How France's fast-fashion law targets brands like Temu

Unknown until three years ago, Temu, an ultra-fast-fashion e-commerce platform, is now on everyone's lips in France.

Scroll through it, and you will find a dress cheaper than a movie ticket. The app has arrivals with different designs and colours every day. The term "ultra-fast fashion" is used to describe companies like Temu that constantly flood the market with large numbers of low-priced products.

The French government has taken great issue with this. On Monday (June 29), French senators passed a revised anti-fast-fashion bill targeting platforms like Temu. This came after years of debate on the issue.

The message from the government is simple: When it's easy to order and replace, these fast-fashion items also contribute to pollution from the textile industry, which makes up nearly 10 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions.

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We take a closer look.

What does the new law say?

The law brings the biggest change for companies considered "ultra-fast fashion." These companies will now have to pay an environmental fee on every item they sell in France.

The charges may not remain the same forever; they will gradually increase in the coming few years. By 2030, the proposed fee could range from at least €10 per garment (around Rs 1,079) to as much as half of the product's pre-tax price.

Now, this could be a major problem for those companies whose entire business relies on selling a variety of clothes at rock-bottom prices. However, trouble for companies is far from over.

The central plank of the bill is that France has prohibited advertising for these brands.

A ban on advertising for ultra-fast fashion brands, including social media influencers who promote these fast fashion brands through paid partnerships. If firms or creators break the rules, they must be prepared to face hefty fines.

Another change will include environmental labelling. Buyers will notice that clothes sold on these platforms must carry information about things like water use and recyclability. The objective would be to give shoppers a better idea of the impact behind every purchase.

Why is Temu in the spotlight and not Zara or H&M?

That's where critics wade in. They disapprove of the legislation for sparing European and French companies such as Zara and H&M. According to France24, some lawmakers in both chambers even refused to vote in favour of the bill.

Last week, Green Party lawmaker Charles Fournier said: "...Brands such as Zara and H&M "have not become models of sustainable fashion," as quoted by the publication.

Critics simply believe the government has missed an opportunity, arguing that whether clothes are produced very fast or ultra-fast, the environmental toll is equally severe.

However, the French government argues that companies like Temu upload thousands of new products in a short span of time.

Trends keep replacing each other overnight. Clothes are produced quickly, sold at rock-bottom prices, and often treated as disposable- and that's precisely the problem, according to lawmakers.

Supporters of the legislation argue that narrowing its scope was necessary, contending that a broader measure might have conflicted with European Union regulations and harmed European retailers and employment.

Why has fast fashion become a big issue?

It's not just about a single dress or a single purchase. It centres on the consequences of millions of consumers buying clothes designed to be worn only a handful of times before being replaced.

The fashion industry already leaves a significant environmental footprint. Clothing production uses significant quantities of water, energy and raw materials, while millions of discarded garments continue to pile up in landfills across the globe.

The rise of ultra-fast fashion has only intensified this cycle. New collections appear almost every day; consumers are encouraged to keep purchasing to stay on trend, fueling a relentless cycle of consumption.

Which is why France has moved to the forefront with legislation aimed at curbing it.

The law was in the making for years. It was first proposed in 2024, but changes, questions, debate and discussions from the European Commission delayed its progress.

Lawmakers ultimately rewrote parts of the bill before both houses of Parliament finally approved it. Details, including how precisely firms will be classified as ultra-fast fashion, still need to be finalised before the rules officially come into force.

What does this mean for shopping beyond France?

People are left reading between the lines about what this move actually means for shopping beyond France. For now, the law only applies in France. However, it could have a much bigger impact.

Other European nations have also been looking more closely at the environmental cost of ultra-fast fashion. If France's move has a significant impact, there is a chance similar regulations could appear elsewhere.

With inputs from agencies