World Biryani Day: Decoding the curious case of potato in Kolkata biryani, and why Bengalis will fight for it

Few food debates in India are as fiercely contested as the humble potato in biryani. Mention it in a room full of biryani lovers and opinions will come thick and fast. Purists from Hyderabad or Lucknow may wonder why anyone would "waste space" on a potato. But ask a Bengali, and they'll tell you the opposite. This perfectly done potato isn't an extra, but an essential. In fact, many Kolkata biryani lovers save the potato for the very last bite.

So how did a vegetable, that isn't even a native of India, become one of the most iconic ingredients in one of India's most celebrated meat dishes? The answer lies in exile, royal kitchens and a city that made an imported recipe entirely its own.

A king who lost his kingdom, but not his cuisine or love for food

The story begins in 1856, when the British East India Company annexed the kingdom of Awadh and exiled its last ruler, Nawab Wajid Ali Shah. Forced to leave Lucknow, the Nawab settled in Metiabruz, on the outskirts of Kolkata. While he lost his throne, he brought with him something equally enduring- his court, his culture, his music, and his legendary royal cooks.

More from Lifestyle

Those chefs recreated the fragrant Awadhi dum biryani in their new home, using long-grain rice, delicately spiced meat and slow-cooking techniques that remain the hallmark of Kolkata biryani even today.

But the biryani that emerged in Bengal wasn't an exact replica of Lucknow's version. Like every great dish that travels, it began to evolve.

So why was the potato added?

One of the most popular stories claims that the Nawab's kitchen had fallen on hard times and potatoes were added to stretch the meat further. It's a compelling tale, but food historians say there is little historical evidence to support it.

Instead, researchers point out that potatoes had already become increasingly popular in Bengal during the 19th century after being introduced through colonial trade and cultivation. By the time Awadhi cooks were preparing biryani in Kolkata, the potato had become a familiar and much-loved ingredient in Bengali kitchens.

Rather than being a sign of scarcity, the potato appears to have been a local adaptation, one that complemented the subtle flavours of Awadhi biryani and gradually became inseparable from the dish itself.

Over time, the potato absorbed the fragrant stock, spices and meat juices during the slow dum cooking process, transforming into something far richer than a simple vegetable. Today, many diners consider it the best part of the meal.

And what about the egg?

The boiled egg, another signature feature of many Kolkata biryanis, wasn't part of the Nawab's original recipe either. Food historians believe it became popular much later through Kolkata's restaurants and biryani houses, eventually evolving into a defining characteristic of the city's version. For many customers, ordering a biryani without the egg now feels incomplete.

Together, the potato, egg, fragrant rice and lightly spiced meat created a style of biryani unlike any other in India.

More subtle than spicy

Unlike the fiery spice profiles associated with some other regional biryanis, Kolkata biryani is known for its restraint. The rice is lightly flavoured with aromatic spices such as cardamom, cinnamon and cloves, while the meat is cooked until exceptionally tender. Rose water, kewra water and saffron are often used to lend fragrance rather than heat.

The result is a biryani where aroma takes centre stage, allowing every ingredient, including the potato, to shine.

Why Bengalis won't give up the potato

For Bengalis, the potato isn't merely a garnish or filler, but a part of the city's culinary identity. The potato soaks up the flavours of the meat and spices over hours of slow cooking, developing a rich, buttery texture that many believe rivals the meat itself. Some even argue that a well-cooked potato is the ultimate test of a great Kolkata biryani. It's no surprise, then, that discussions about removing it are often met with fierce, and humorous, defence online.

Kolkata biryani is proof that recipes evolve as they travel. Born from the royal kitchens of Lucknow, shaped by the history of exile, and embraced by Bengal's own culinary traditions, it became something entirely unique.

So this World Biryani Day, whether you're team Hyderabad, Lucknow, Malabar or Ambur, remember this- for millions of Bengalis, the potato in Kolkata is not a topic of debate but an addition which has become irreplaceable, loved and often the showstealer in the dish!