Why is Lucknow known for chikankari embroidery?

Take a walk through the streets of Delhi on a hot summer afternoon and you are likely to spot women dressed in light, flowy cotton chikankari kurtas. Social media too is filled with summer collections featuring chikankari outfits in soft colours and breathable fabrics.

Considered one of the most comfortable choices for the season, chikankari has become a summer wardrobe staple across the country.

Behind its growing popularity lies a rich history that takes us back to Lucknow, the city most closely associated with this timeless embroidery tradition. The history of chikankari is deeply intertwined with the cultural fabric of the city.

The Lucknow connection behind chikankari

While Lucknow popularly known as the the city of Nawabs has a rich cultural heritage, while its kebabs and Biryani need no introduction, it is equally known for its centuries-old chikankari craft. The delicate art of embroidery has its origins in the city of Nawabs and remains one of its most treasured cultural legacies.

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The origins of chikankari are linked to the Mughal era. It is believed that Empress Noor Jahan introduced the Persian technique of white-on-white embroidery to India.

Known for her appreciation of fine arts and craftsmanship, she encouraged its practice in Lucknow, where it flourished.

The word "chikan" derived from the Persian word referring to cloth decorated with needlework. Although it began as a court craft, the efforts of art lovers and skilled artisans helped popularise it among wider sections of society, eventually turning it into an important commercial activity.

Early Mughal-era chikankari was characterised by white thread embroidered on muslin or mulmul, delicate cotton fabrics well suited to India's tropical climate.

Over time, artisans in the Awadh region refined and developed the embroidery style, blending Persian influences with local textile traditions.

GI Tag strengthened chikankari’s identity

The significance of Lucknow's chikankari was formally recognised when it received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in December 2008. The recognition helped reinforce its unique identity and highlighted the cultural and economic value of the craft.

The intricate craftsmanship behind every chikankari piece

Chikankari is known for its intricate needlework and detailed motifs. Some of the well-known patterns include muree, lerchi, keelkangan and bakhia.

The beauty of the craft lies in its precision, evenness and fine workmanship.

Recognised for its delicate elegance, chikankari combines more than 32 different embroidery techniques.

Among the most notable are shadow work, satin stitch, jaali and tepchi.

The craft continued through generations

Lucknow has long been recognised as a centre for some of the finest embroidery in the world.

The craft reached its peak in Lucknow during the late nineteenth century. However, the arrival of mass-produced textiles during the British period posed a major challenge to traditional artisans.

Despite these difficulties, local women and artisan communities continued to preserve the craft, passing down skills and techniques from one generation to the next.

In today’s time, the popularity of this embroidery is unmatched. The craft also continues to support the livelihoods of a large number of artisans.

Why Chikankari remains perfect for Indian summers

Traditionally, chikankari work was done on sarees and kurta-pyjamas, garments particularly suited to India's hot summers.

Today, chikankari can be found on a wide range of materials including voile, chiffon, linen, rubia, khadi and handloom fabrics.

Its lightweight fabrics, breathable texture and elegant appearance continue to make chikankari one of the most preferred choices for summer dressing.

Where to buy authentic Chikankari in Lucknow

A major destination for those looking to purchase authentic chikankari is Aminabad Market in Lucknow, which is renowned for its wide range of chikankari sarees, kurtas and textiles.

The market remains a favourite among locals and visitors searching for traditional hand-embroidered garments that reflect the city's heritage.