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The long and short of a strawberry shortcake

Strawberry shortcake is an American invention and helped induce strawberry fever there. But it can be made with peaches, blueberries or other summer fruit. Kassam suggests serving this simple delicious dessert with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream, a perfect finish to a summer meal.

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Kassam A|May 10, 2011, 12:54:11 IST

As a child, I thought of Strawberry Shortcake as a doll with scented hair.  Along with her friends Huckleberry Pie and Blueberry Muffin she was part of a 32-character line (all with dessert-themed names) created in the 1980s. The Strawberry Shortcake fad included stickers, clothes, video games, and many other items. Consumer demand waned after several years, but was revived with mild success in 2002 and again in 2009 with a film and television series.  It wasn’t until my adulthood that I experienced the dessert that inspired the character.Shortcakes are named for the essential ingredient of shortening, and are a European invention that dates back to at least the 16th century.  Shakespeare makes a reference to shortcake in The Merry Wives of Windsor.[caption id="attachment_7292" align="alignleft" width="380" caption="Shortcakes are named for the essential ingredient of shortening, and are a European invention that dates back to at least the 16th century. Image by Kassam A."]Shortcakes are named for the essential ingredient of shortening, and are a European invention that dates back to at least the 16th century. Image by Kassam A.[/caption]The combination of shortcake and strawberries, however, is an American invention. The earliest known recipe is from an 1847 cookbook where it is called Strawberry Cake. The dessert became very popular in the 1850s and 1860s as the first transcontinental railroad made it possible for fresh strawberries to be shipped nationally. Advertisers induced strawberry fever by encouraging demand for the fruit; strawberry shortcake parties became popular as a celebration of the coming summer.Originally, strawberry shortcake was meant to be made from piecrust in a round or in pieces covered with strawberries. The current dominant version uses a scone or biscuit. Some modern recipes use a sponge cake – this is especially common in Japan where strawberry shortcake is a favorite Christmas or birthday cake. While strawberry shortcake is the most common version of the dessert, shortcakes can be served with peaches, blueberries or other summer fruit. Some recipes call for flavored shortcakes; coconut is the most common variant. I suggest serving the shortcake with vanilla ice cream for a more substantive finish to a summer meal.Leftover shortcakes can be refrigerated for several days or frozen for up a month (thaw overnight in the refrigerator and then bring up to room temperature). You can also eat them for breakfast - toasted and spread with butter and berry jam.Serves 6Shortcake Biscuits1 3/4 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour1/4 cup granulated white sugar2 tablespoons cornstarch1 tablespoon baking powder1/4 cup cold unsalted butter (1/2 stick), cut into chunks1/2 cup buttermilk1/4 cup + 1 tablespoon heavy creamzest from one orange Strawberry Topping1 to 2 pints (1/2 to 1 pound) strawberries, washed, stems removed and quartered2 tablespoons orange juice or triple sec liqueur1/4 cup granulated white sugar1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice (optional)vanilla ice cream and whipped cream, to serve[caption id="attachment_7280" align="alignleft" width="380" caption="Strawberry Shortcake with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream. Image by Kassam A."][/caption]1. To make biscuits, in a large bowl, mix flour, sugar, cornstarch and baking powder.2. Using a pastry cutter or two knives work in butter until it resembles coarse meal.  You can also use your fingers, but this will unnecessarily heat the butter.  The convenience may be worth the risk, but work quickly if you decide to go this route.3. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and add buttermilk, 1/4 cup cream and orange zest.4. Stir with a fork until a dough just forms.5. Turn dough out onto a floured surface and knead until it just holds together.6. Place dough back in the large bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes.7. Preheat oven to 375 F.8. On a floured surface, pat out dough until 1/2 inch thick. Cut out biscuits using a 3-inch round cookie cutter or an overturned drinking glass.9. Transfer biscuits to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush lightly with remaining heavy cream and sprinkle with sugar.10. Bake for 15 to 20 or until golden brown. Transfer to a rack to cool.11. To make strawberry topping, gently mix all the ingredients. Stand at room temperature for 1 hour before serving.12. To serve, slice biscuit in half horizontally. Place a scoop of ice cream on the bottom, add strawberry topping and top with shortcake top. Serve with a dollop of homemade whipped cream. Alternately, skip ice cream and place whipped cream in shortcake sandwich.

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Kassam began cooking in the second grade. He is particularly interested in bringing a cultural and historical perspective to food and exploring how what we eat is shaped by migration, colonialism, and trade. On this blog, he will feature recipes inspired by international holidays, world travel, culinary icons, art, and his parent's kitchen. Born in Kenya and raised in Canada, Kassam now makes his home in New York City.

First Published:May 10, 2011, 12:54:00 IST
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