The ancient history and enduring cultural significance of payal

Silver anklets are having a moment. They appear everywhere, from bridal jewellery collections and festive wardrobes to minimalist styles paired with sneakers and summer dresses.

The payal's appeal extends far beyond fashion. The ornament has a history that stretches back centuries, making it one of the oldest continuously worn forms of jewellery in the Indian subcontinent.

While historians cannot pinpoint exactly when the first payal was worn, archaeological evidence suggests that jewellery and personal adornment were already deeply embedded in life during the Indus Valley Civilisation, which flourished between 2600 and 1900 BCE.

Excavations at sites such as Mohenjo-daro and Harappa have uncovered a wide variety of ornaments made from shells, beads and metals, reflecting a sophisticated culture of adornment and craftsmanship.

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Over time, anklets evolved from simple decorative objects into symbols of status and identity. As metalworking techniques improved and trade expanded, silver became the material most closely associated with payals.

In many communities, the size, weight and intricacy of an anklet could signal a family's wealth or social standing. What began as ornament gradually acquired social and cultural meaning.

The payal also occupies an important place in Indian literature. One of the great classics of Tamil literature, Cilappatikaram (The Tale of an Anklet), believed to have been composed around the 5th or 6th century CE, centres on the story of Kannaki and a jewelled anklet. In the epic, the ornament becomes evidence of innocence, a symbol of marital fidelity and the catalyst for justice. The fact that an anklet sits at the heart of one of India's most celebrated literary works speaks to its significance in everyday life and imagination.

More than jewellery

For generations, the payal has been associated with womanhood, marriage and prosperity. In many parts of India, anklets form an important part of a bride's jewellery collection and are often gifted during wedding ceremonies. Their distinctive sound has long carried social meaning, traditionally announcing a woman's arrival within a household or gathering.

Silver emerged as the preferred metal not only because of its affordability but also because many Hindu traditions discourage wearing gold on the feet, considering the metal sacred and associated with the goddess Lakshmi. As a result, silversmiths across the country developed a rich variety of anklet designs, ranging from delicate chains to elaborate pieces adorned with bells.

Regional traditions have given rise to different names and styles. Depending on where one travels, anklets may be known as payal, pajeb, jhanjhar, kolusu, golusu or silambu. Despite these variations, the ornament remains instantly recognisable across India.

Its connection to movement has also ensured its longevity. In classical dance forms such as Bharatanatyam and Kathak, dancers wear ghungroos — rows of small metallic bells tied around the ankles. These are not merely decorative; they function as instruments, transforming footwork into rhythm and making the dancer's movements audible.

Today, the payal occupies a unique position between heritage and fashion. It continues to feature in wedding traditions and family heirlooms while also finding new audiences through contemporary jewellery trends. Few ornaments have adapted so successfully across centuries. Whether worn as a cultural symbol, a family keepsake or a simple accessory, the payal remains firmly woven into the story of Indian adornment.